On the road again . . .

Here’s a picture of me getting ready to take the bike on it’s first ride. Got the bike from the LBS (local bike shop) – the guy gave me a good deal, about 50 bucks lower than everywhere else I saw it, which basically meant the starter kit with pump, bag, tools, tube etc. was free.
The other choices I had to make were pedals and computer. I went with the basic wireless Cateye computer, and the bottom of the line Look pedals. I’m having a bit of buyers remorse on the pedals cause they look pretty cheap (plastic). But they work just a well as my last pair, so I’m going to give it some time. Just doesn’t make much sense to be to spend 10% of the cost of the bike on pedals.
So, the verdict after one ride is as follows:
The bike performed very well. It’s a great fit for me, and is very comfortable. The triple, and setup for climbing makes a difference on the hills. Of course I felt awful because I’m so out of shape, but I could see that the bike is responsive and will be fun once I get my legs back. So far the only thing I think I would upgrade would be the front derailleur. It’s Shimano 105, which isn’t bad, but having gotten used to Dura Ace I expect to quickly and quietly pop between chain rings. Plus it’s doing a little more work due to the triple, so I could see spending some money to improve that.

Pickin’ up the bike tomorrow

Last weekend I decided to go and ride the Trek 1500. Before looking at (being tempted by) anything else I just went straight to the bike (they had one in my size) and asked to take it for a spin. It was suprisingly nice for the money. I am weak when it comes to upselling, so when the sales guy told me that Klein was dumping last years Quantum Pro’s cheap I got very tempted. Almost double the price, but still a very good value.
After much thought, however, I decided the 1500 is plenty bike for what I like to do – so I’m picking it up tomorrow. Now the decision moves to accessories. ;-)

This just in . .

Insurance company just called to give me number on my claim for my stolen bikes. They have independent researchers that try to determine the replacement value for the bikes. I guess because my Klein is somewhat difficult to find, and they aparently based their estimate off the retail value of replacing the bike new. Not sure I’m going to replace the bike with the same class, but I can now get something guilt free.
Whew – it was stressing me out thinking about having to may for this out of pocket.
Thanks USAA.

New Bike

So I may need some help/opinions on what kind of bike I should get to replace the Klein. I’ve been looking at used bikes, but am not finding a great selection. Also, when I’ve purchased used bikes in the past, there was always something not quite right – like swapped parts didn’t fit or something. But you can definitely find some great deals if you don’t mind a few scratches and wear and tear. So I’m thinking of buying new this time. Given that, I don’t really have the $$ to buy an all Dura Ace equiped bike, or probably even Ultegra for that matter, so I’ve been looking at the Felt F75. The retail is about $1399.00, and it’s got a Shimano 105/Ultegra mix.
Now my local bike shop has a Specialized Sequoia Pro, with full Dura Ace that they say they will sell to me for about $1600, which would be a great deal but it is really considered a comfort bike. For non-cyclist, this means they have basically made the bike heavier by equiping with things like bigger tires, comfort seat, handle bars etc. It rides really nice, and I should probably get over the weight of the bike, (I should probably start with my belly), but I can’t get avoid the stigma of the comfort bike.. I’m also not sure about the geometry of the frame – I’m used to a more traditional frame like the on the Felt.
Here are my own personal tips for finding the right road bike:
1. Don’t pinch pennies – you’ll only end up frustrated. Get as much bike as you can, and then get your butt on the saddle and ride. Think of it as a gym membership, that you would actually use.
2. Buy something that is aesthetically pleasing to you. When you spend a lot of money on a bike, half of the enjoyment is pride of ownership. Heck, I know a lot of people that hang their bikes on the wall like art.
3. Make sure you buy from someone you trust, or take someone you trust with you. That way you won’t get sold into something not right for you, or the wrong size.
4. As much as the paint job may be cool, it’s all about the components. Complete bike prices are almost entirely dictated by the componentry – if you know what to look for, that is how you will find great deals. Example – $1600 for the Sequoia mentioned above is pretty darn good considering you’ll spend $1000 just for the Dura Ace components alone. Of course, the key is to find something you think looks cool AND has the match of components you want.
5. Always take the bike for a spin – isn’t that obvious? Make sure you go through all the gears, try the brakes etc. If you have probablems shifting, it might be a sign of poor assembly and a red flag regarding buying from that shop.
6. Don’t pay much attention to the saddle – easy to replace, and you probably will. But definitely don’t base your purchased decision on whether the seat is comfortable. Especially if you are not a regular rider – all saddles will feel uncomfortable.
7. Next to componentry, wheels are probably next most important, especially if you are a big guy like me. Make sure you get wheels that match your style of riding, and your size/weight. But be careful, you can easily spend over $1000 on the wheelset alone if you’re not careful. If you not an advanced rider, you probably won’t know the difference so just make sure you have sturdy enough wheels so they won’t go out of true frequently, requiring adjustment by yourself or your shop.
8. Check the quality of the assembly – that will usually tell a lot about the shop you are buying from. Most bikes are shipped in parts and assembled at the shop. I’ve heard of major probablems like shops installing the fork backwards, but it could be less obvious. You can usually tell by looking at little things like handle bar tape. My local bike shop does a very nice job, well put together. I went into a local REI a couple days ago, and the bikes looked terrible. If they can’t install handle bar tape correctly, what are they going to do with the bottom bracket?
9. Figure out what frame materials you want. These days you can get steel/alloy, aluminum, aluminum/carbon, all carbon, titanium, titanium/carbon (this appears to be very popular these days). These materials will often dictate the price of the bike. All Carbon is expensive to make but produces a comfortable and incredibly light bike. But because the frame is expensive, they usually pair it with a pricey gruppo, like Dura Ace. (Gruppo is what you call the entire set of components). Also, watch out for carbon, because everything is more expensive in carbon, and tends to wear out more quickly. If you are on a budget, Aluminum/carbon mix is probably what you’ll be looking at.
10. Last, but not least, be realisitc about what you can spend and how much you think you’ll be riding. If you are not already an avid road cyclist but looking to get into it, start with something modest, you won’t be able to tell the difference anyway.

If I had an unlimited budget, I think I’d buy this bike. Pre-owned this bike is about $5000. Yes, when the bikes are more expensive they use the term “pre-owned” instead of “used”.

Bikes Stolen

Came home yesterday from a short trip only to find that my garage has been broken into and both of my bikes stolen. For those who know me, you’ll understand that this is a big blow. I loved my bikes and spent quite a lot of time finding them, tuning them, and of course, riding them. Here is what I lost:
2004 Gary Fisher Tassahara mountain bike
2001 Klein Quantum Pro road bike
What really bugs me is that I usually keep my bikes inside the house but only recently put them in the garage to make room for a party. It was on my list to bring them back in.
Sucks.